Diving "White Death"

HANGING OUT WITH GREAT WHITE SHARKS IN SOUTH AFRICA

Sharks have always fascinated me and none more so than the infamous great white. Since first watching David Attenborough’s Wildlife on One, I’d envisioned one day experiencing a close up encounter with the most notorious of beasts that lurk the deep blue. Feared by most who step foot into the water, great white sharks have unjustifiably earned themselves a bad reputation through exaggerated media stories and, most notably, the blockbuster film Jaws. 

The great white shark is listed as a vulnerable species on the IUCN red list, however, estimations made by leading shark biologists state there are fewer than 3,500 individuals, making them more vulnerable to extinction than the tiger. Some sources claim that their population is growing while others argue it is declining. In light of this, I felt it was high time I realised my dream of coming face-to-face with the sharks before it might be too late.

It was during my spell in South Africa that the time had come to bring my long awaited meeting with Carcharodon carcharias to fruition. I had been travelling along the picturesque Garden Route and chose to spend a few days in Hermanus, a quaint little town situated on a mountainous bay and one of the world’s hotspots for whale watching. Between May and September, southern right whales annually migrate from the Antarctic to give birth to their young in the warmer waters of South Africa’s coastline. The town is also situated about a 40-minute drive away from one of the most famous great white shark hotspots in the world, Gansbaai.

I entrusted White Shark Ecoventures to ensure that there would be no chance of disappointment. After a quick breakfast and an induction informing us on all of the safety regulations, we set off out to sea. My initial excitement quickly turned to apprehension as the realisation set in that I would soon be plunging into the water with a one-and-a-half-tonne fish that some call “White Death”. I began to play out disastrous scenarios in my head, asking myself questions such as “What if the cage detaches itself from the boat and we sink toward the seabed?”, and “What if the shark breaks through the cage and gobbles me up?”

Before I knew it, we had arrived at Shark Alley and the boat engines came to a halt. A pair of tuna heads coupled with a bucket full of chum were tossed into the surrounding water and then the wait began. Around half an hour of gazing into the grey/blue void had passed before a large silhouette emerged from the depths of the murky sea. I suspiciously squinted my eyes to block out the glare reflecting off the shimmering surface, and then I was certain. “Shark! shark!”, I excitedly called to the boat captain as the ten-foot-long adolescent male menacingly glided closer toward the starboard side of the boat. Without a moment’s hesitation, we were instructed to put on our snorkels and climb down into the steel cage. Still nervous about all of the potentially catastrophic situations that had been running through my mind, I cautiously lowered myself into the only thing that would separate me from the three sharks that were already circling the boat. Strangely, all of my worries filtered away and were replaced with serenity the moment I entered the water. There was something so tranquil about being alone with my thoughts beneath the ocean swell.

As the first shark gradually appeared from out of the shadows, I remember feeling completely at peace, entirely without fear as the apex predator gracefully edged closer. As he quietly swam by, I couldn’t help but stare intensely into his almost extraterrestrial jet black eyes. Though virtually impossible to distinguish exactly where a great white is directing its gaze, somehow I knew that he was looking at me, sussing me out.

Soon after, two more sharks began to encircle the boat and I found myself surrounded from all angles. I never felt threatened, not once. Sharing a few moments in the cold South African winter waters with the great whites helped me to understand that they had absolutely no interest in causing me any harm, despite a few heavy bumps against the cage. Each shark was only interested in the bait that had lured them into our vicinity in the first place.

It was only when the sharks surged for the glum looking tuna heads that I was reminded of the immense power and killer instinct that great whites possess. With the ability to accelerate from a leisurely swim to incredible speeds in the blink of an eye, each shark would dart toward the bait with eyes rolled back and jaws wide open. On a few occasions, some of the sharks would actually breach, thrashing their streamlined bodies around as they cleared the water surface entirely.

After spending around an hour in complete euphoria in the water, it was finally time to call it a day and we reluctantly headed back to the harbour. I spent the next few days totally in awe of the brief encounter I’d had with one of the greatest forces of nature to inhabit our planet.

Shark populations have been decimated over the past 100 years due to overfishing, trophy hunting, culling and finning. There are some that firmly believe that these atrocities are beneficial to mankind and that due to unprovoked attacks on humans, we would be better off in a world without them. I’d argue that stepping out of our natural environment and into theirs is to provoke a naturally curious animal and that as apex predators, sharks are undoubtedly essential for maintaining healthy ecosystems that we and many other species depend on. Furthermore, attacks on humans are extremely rare and are often a consequence of mistaken identity.

Since that significant day I spent in Shark Alley, thoughts have stirred in my mind about what it would be like to live in a world without great white sharks and how many more species would soon follow them into extinction. As custodians of our beautiful planet, I believe that it is our moral obligation to ensure that this very real possibility does not become a tragic reality.

A Colossal Pursuit

Photo: Shutterstock

BLUE WHALE WATCHING IN SRI LANKA

There is a small selection of our planet’s weird and wonderful creatures that almost seem to be mythical. Ask anyone if they have ever seen a blue whale and most will reply with something along the lines of “Does the model in the natural history museum count?” It seems that for most people, the idea of witnessing the glorious spectacle of the mighty blue whale breaching the ocean surface is about as likely as spotting a woolly mammoth or Big Foot. Indeed, despite claiming the title of largest creature ever to have inhabited our planet, the blue whale remains a rather elusive and mysterious beast.

Following huge efforts to prevent the extinction of the blue whale, their populations have been on the rise over the past 50 years or so. It was recently discovered that many of them currently reside in the warm waters based off Dondra Point in Sri Lanka. This finding, together with the recent ending of the 25- year civil war has led to somewhat of a tourism boom in the tear-drop shaped island nation. The high probability of spotting undoubtedly one of nature’s greatest creations coupled with the fact Sri Lanka’s Yala National Park boasts the highest concentration of wild leopards in the world was enough tempt me in.

After a journey filled with arduous hikes and lengthy train rides, I wanted to unwind for a few days in the tranquil beach town of Mirissa. Bountifully scattered along the white sand shores were a host of tour operators offering whale watching excursions. I put my faith in a small yet highly recommended company named Danushka and the Whales and went to bed that evening thoroughly excited for what awaited me the next day.

I woke at six-o-clock the following morning and after a quick breakfast, climbed into a tuk-tuk toward the harbour. After crisscrossing our way through a hoard of local fisherman, all frantically trying to make a quick Rupee off their morning catch, I arrived at the jetty and boarded the half-full boat in high spirits. Soon thereafter, we soon pulled out of the picturesque port and headed purposefully into the open ocean.

The swell was slight and the water crystal clear as we gradually distanced ourselves further from the palm covered coast. A few hours passed where nothing but seabirds and a lone flying fish were spotted. Just as all passengers on board were about to give up, we happened upon twenty or so whale watching boats, all congregated in the same small patch of deep blue sea. It quickly became apparent that something had aroused their interest, and as a result, excited passengers swiftly positioned themselves toward the bow.

As we entered the area of interest, the unmistakable sound of water forcefully spouting through the blowhole of a whale came from the starboard side. I turned toward the direction of the misty spray, and there, 20-feet away in all of its magnificence, was that most fabled of all living things – a blue whale. After standing motionless for a few seconds in complete awe and admiration, I quickly grabbed for my camera. Hurriedly, I captured snap after snap of the gigantic cetacean including the trademark tail fin shot as she began her descent into the deeper water.

It wasn’t until she appeared at the surface again, around a kilometer into the distance that I realized I had wasted the moment. I soon understood that to have initially been in such close proximity to the whale was a rare occurrence, and began to feel annoyed with myself for spending those precious few seconds behind the camera lens instead of fully embracing the encounter. As the gentle giant resurfaced every ten minutes or so, the growing number of boats would recklessly speed toward her and I increasingly began to feel disheartened. It saddened me to learn the tour operators’ desire to ensure a high-rate of customer satisfaction consequently led to the harassment of an animal that just wanted to be left in peace. It was less a case of “whale watching” more “whale chasing”.

As a wildlife enthusiast, I cannot deny my feelings of elation whilst encountering three blue whales that day. Nonetheless, I feel rather conflicted about the whole experience due to the obvious lack of ethicality. I appreciate the difficulty that tour operators have in finding the right balance between ethical practices and increasing their ratings on review sites such as Trip Advisor, but this predicament should not be to the detriment of any animal. More stringent measures need to be enforced, limiting the number of vessels and time spent with the whales. An excellent example to follow would be that of gorilla trekking regulations in East Africa. In Rwanda, limited permits are issued to tourists each day and trekkers are not permitted to spend any longer than one hour with the great apes. Furthermore, the sheer cost of each permit is enough to separate the serious wildlife enthusiasts from the general public.

Approximately 200 people were crammed together onto our boat the day I went to see the blue whales. Filtering out those who grew bored after five minutes of taking selfies, there were probably no more than twenty people interested in observing and learning about the whales. It would seem that by following Rwanda’s example, there is already a tried and tested solution for ensuring that genuine wildlife enthusiasts have the opportunity to experience once-in-a-lifetime opportunities with nature, without causing any major distress to the subject.

The Tatra Bears

This article was originally published in Oko! Magazine

Think of wildlife tourism, and what is the first thing that comes to mind? Perhaps you picture yourself on safari watching a herd of trumpeting elephants march across the open savannas of the Serengeti. Maybe trekking through the dense forests of the Amazon basin in hopes of spotting the highly elusive jaguar is more your cup of tea. Whatever and wherever you imagine, it probably doesn’t belong on this continent. In the Czech Republic, we tend to believe that the greatest wildernesses and creatures are half a world away. So it may come as a surprise to learn that Europe is actually home to some of the most fascinating animals to roam the planet, with some species inhabiting places located practically on our doorstep. 

Travel to Bodø or Tromsø in northern Norway and you’ll have the opportunity to witness an incredible variety of marine life, including orcas, sperm whales, humpbacks, porpoises, and even the largest animal ever to have lived on Earth, the blue whale. Head southwest to the Andalusia region of Spain and you might spot ibex and flamingos, or perhaps even be lucky enough to catch a rare glimpse of one of the world’s rarest cats, the Iberian lynx.

But a little closer to home lies a real gem. The Tatras (specifically the High Tatras) occupied the top spot on Lonely Planet’s list of ten essential European destinations for 2019. Situated around 550km east of Prague, the almost mythical landscape comprises a towering realm of jagged peaks and tumbling waterfalls, with a spectacular array of flora adorning the rugged terrain and formidable beasts, including the iconic European brown bear, roaming the fertile forests.

By the end of the 20th century, hunting, deforestation and human-wildlife conflicts had caused brown bear populations to disappear from much of their original range in Europe. Conservation efforts succeeded in halting the decline and in some parts of the continent, bear populations are now recovering. Slovakia has become somewhat of a stronghold, hosting a growing population of around 1,500 bears, with around 130 residing in the Tatras National Park. This has led to a boom in wildlife tourism in the Tatras and now, spotting brown bears in their natural habitat has never been easier. Visitors also frequently observe other native species, including wild boar, deer, marmots, and the endemic and critically endangered Tatra chamois. Those with good fortune may even observe the elusive wolf, lynx, or wildcat.

The health of the ecosystem and great biodiversity in the Tatras is predominantly down to the conservation work being carried out there. One of the organisations operating in the area is the Slovak Wildlife Society (SWS) – a non-profit that focuses on the brown bear, grey wolf, and Eurasian lynx. Established in 1998, and now an active member of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Bear Specialist Group, the SWS’s work entails developing effective measures to reduce human-wildlife conflicts and fostering greater understanding and acceptance of native predators within the surrounding communities.

The increase in the number of brown bears in the area has naturally led to a rise in human-wildlife conflicts, with interactions occurring more frequently due to reasons such as poor storage of refuse. Rare cases in which bears display threatening behaviour are often sensationalised in the media, leading to a heightened sense of fear among the general public. The SWS responded to this situation by launching the B.E.A.R.S (Bear Education, Awareness, and Research in Slovakia) Project in 2003 (www.medvede.sk).

The B.E.A.R.S Project has been providing expert knowledge and assistance to locals in implementing non-lethal measures to prevent conflicts, including livestock-guarding dogs, electric fences, and bear-proof bins. Further, the scientific research carried out has provided authorities with a sound basis for effective management decisions, in addition to contributing information for educational purposes and awareness campaigns. In fact, the SWS has played a big role in introducing conservation to the community, helping to encourage children and young people to take an active interest in nature at “Bear Camps” and other outdoor activities, hosting photographic exhibitions, and organising seminars and workshops.

But the work of the SWS extends further than small community projects. Tourists venturing to this increasingly popular destination have the opportunity to book walking and biking tours where they can witness the bears and other wildlife amid the stunning scenery of the Carpathians.

Tourists are guided by locally based wildlife experts with decades of experience combining responsible ecotourism with conservation research. As specialists in large carnivores, the SWS guides provide guests with detailed insight into the lives of animals and the challenges they face. Visitors exploring the extensive forests, mountains, and meadows will learn about their ecology and the conflicts with human interests that threaten their long-term survival. Participants can even play an active role in conservation through helping with fieldwork, which includes measuring and recording the tracks of bears, wolves, and lynx; collecting samples for genetic analysis; and monitoring animals with trail cameras. 

Tours typically last six hours and cost €90 (around 2,300Kč) per person (based on two people booking a one-day tour together). The fees go directly to fund conservation and support the SWS’s continued efforts to protect wildlife and habitats from the growing pressures of development. It is the belief of the SWS that sustainable tourism can help demonstrate to local communities the value of the natural environment around them. These efforts, combined with their intensive education work, can help change the negative perception of bears and wolves from being animals that should be feared and reviled to being animals that local people can be proud of and want to preserve.

Sustainable tourism is all the rage these days, and for good reason. The industry has committed to making a smaller impact on the environment and local culture and ensuring that development is a positive experience for surrounding communities, tourist companies, and tourists themselves. By planning a trip to the nearby Tatras and booking wildlife tours with conservation groups such as the SWS, not only can you enjoy an unforgettable vacation in glorious settings, but you’ll also be doing your own small part to help conserve some of the flora and fauna that make the natural world so wondrous.

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Wildlife of the Tatras National Park

Photo by Uryadnikov Sergey / Adobe Stock

European Brown Bear (Ursus arctos arctos)

Diet: Bears are omnivorous, meaning they eat a wide variety of foods – from grass, fruit, insects, roots and bulbs of plants to carrion.

Population: Around 130 in the Tatras National Park and surrounding areas (approximately 1,500 in Slovakia).

Life Expectancy: Maximum 30 years in the wild.

Size (adult): Height 70-150cm (at shoulder) / Weight 80-350kg

The European brown bear is one of the most common subspecies of brown bear and can be found across much of Eurasia. Large territories and a secretive lifestyle make it hard to determine their exact number, but there are estimated to be around 1,500 individuals distributed mostly across the central and northern mountains of Slovakia. Besides females with young, they usually lead a solitary life, but sometimes gather to feed at seasonally abundant food sources such as fruit trees. Bears start hibernating around November and are inactive from December to February or March, so now might be your last chance to see them this year.

Photo by Dennis / Adobe Stock

Eurasian Wolf (Canis lupus lupus)

Diet: Predominantly red deer, roe deer, and wild boar. Occasionally also prey on livestock.

Population: Around 50 individuals in the Liptov region.

Life Expectancy: On average 6-8 years. Maximum 13 years.

Size (adult): Height 80-85cm / Weight 36-45kg

Native to Europe and the forest and steppe zones of the former Soviet Union, the Eurasian wolf is a subspecies of grey wolf, which can also be found in North America. The population of Eurasian wolves in Slovakia is estimated at around 400 individuals, with many of the packs forced to subsist largely on livestock and refuse in areas with dense human activity. They are a highly social animal whose basic social structure consists of a mated pair and their adult offspring. Packs are typically made up of a family of five to 11 animals, but large packs with numbers exceeding 40 wolves have been recorded in some parts of the world.

Photo by JUAN CARLOS MUNOZ / Adobe Stock

Eurasian Lynx (Lynx lynx)

Diet: Mostly roe deer and brown hares, but may also take chamois, foxes, rodents, and birds. 

Population: Around 15-20 in the Tatras.

Life Expectancy: Up to 14 years

Size (adult): Height 70cm / Weight 18-30kg

The Eurasian lynx is a widely distributed medium-sized wild cat that inhabits forests up to an altitude of 5,500m in Northern, Central and Eastern Europe. Its range also extends to Central Asia and Siberia, the Tibetan Plateau and the Himalayas. With an estimated global population of 10,000, approximately 200-300 Eurasian lynx prowl the mixed forests of Central and East Slovakia. These stealthy felines are incredibly secretive and their quiet nature has caused their presence in an area to go unnoticed by humans for years. 

Photo by WildMedia / Adobe Stock

Tatra Chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra tatrica)

Diet: Mainly grass, herbs, and leaves in summer, plus sprouts and bark of trees as well as lichens in winter.

Population: 1,300-1,400

Life Expectancy: Up to 15-17 years

Size (adult): Height 70-80cm / Weight 25-45kg

The critically endangered Tatra chamois is a subspecies of Alpine chamois and inhabits all parts of the Tatras. They are protected by the national parks in both Poland and Slovakia. From 1999-2000, populations of these slender bovids dropped below 200 individuals, but a five-year programme initiated in 2001 to save them has since seen the species recover. Today, the population stands between 1,300 and 1,400 individuals, which are the highest numbers of Tatra chamois in recorded history. They tend to frequent alpine meadows, cliffs, and boulder fields above the treeline at 1,700m.